Throughout Italy’s rich and extensive culinary tradition, coffee occupies a special position of cultural and social importance. From the espresso ceremonies in Neapolitan cafes to the meticulous brewing of contemporary specialty roasteries, Italian coffee culture has evolved dramatically over the past decades. Once synonymous nearly entirely with tradition and local pride, Italy’s coffee story is increasingly defined by trends toward quality, transparency, and consumer awareness. Within this evolving landscape, written documentation and critical evaluation have emerged as essential tools for navigating the growing complexity of the industry.
Among these initiatives, one guide has become a symbol of change in the way coffee is understood, judged, and consumed in Italy. Guida dei Caffè e delle Torrefazioni d’Italia—Guide to Italian Coffees and Roasteries—is the translation of the title of the guide that was originally released in 2021 as a standalone project and has since become a national point of reference. Written and selected by Mauro Illiano, a professional writer, and certified coffee taster, the guide strives to provide an extended analysis of roasteries and their drinks. It is not just a listing of establishments; it uses ordered assessment criteria to measure quality, skill, and sensory effects.
The initial publication of the guide came from Medicea Edizioni Firenze in 2021 and included a variety of roasteries from throughout Italy. Illiano, having initially trained with the Specialty Coffee Association and undertaken the Coffee Skills Program, drew upon his experience in tasting and legal procedures to create a standardized test format. The objective was to present a methodical reference point for both professionals and consumers. Each of the guide’s entries was the product of a blind-tasting protocol, with consideration for consistency, aroma, and flavor definition. The strategy blended technical rigor with user-friendly prose, positioning the guide as both a critical resource and a teaching tool.
Over its first three years, the guide expanded in both scope and readership. Editions released in 2022 and 2023 (published by Mondadori Electa) saw broader regional coverage and included contributions from additional tasters and editors. During this time, the guide gained visibility through institutional collaborations and media appearances. In 2022, Illiano coordinated “Nu bbèllu ccafè,” a coffee culture event organized by the Municipality of Naples, further drawing attention to the guide’s educational mission. The following year, he was appointed to the Board of Experts of the Slow Food Coffee Coalition, which brought together professionals focused on ethical and sustainable coffee practices. These roles complemented the guide’s core goal of consumer awareness.
The turning point in the guide’s national reach came in October 2024, when it was officially acquired by Gambero Rosso, one of Italy’s most established food and wine publishing groups. Known for its restaurant and wine guides, Gambero Rosso added the coffee guide to its portfolio in a move that signaled a broader institutional interest in specialty coffee.
Throughout its development, the guide has served multiple roles: as a catalog, a quality benchmark, and a cultural document. It aims not only to highlight excellence but to support the professionalization of the coffee industry. According to ANSA, a leading Italian news agency that covered Illiano’s involvement in coffee education, the guide fills a gap in public knowledge. Unlike traditional restaurant reviews, the guide brings a technical framework to beverage evaluation, helping readers understand the difference between standard commercial offerings and those rooted in craft and sustainability.
Illiano’s involvement with institutions like the International Coffee Organization and the Italian Coffee Summit further underscores the guide’s credibility. In 2021, he was appointed to the Engagement Group formed in collaboration with the Young Ambassadors Society, part of the G20-Y20 initiatives. This role placed him in discussions with international delegates on policy and education surrounding coffee. While not directly tied to the guide, his participation in these platforms supported its goals of elevating discourse and aligning Italian practices with global trends.
Additionally, Illiano’s media presence has contributed to the guide’s visibility. He has taken part in broadcasts, most notably a 2019 consultancy for Report, a broadcast program on Rai 3. His writings have also appeared in food and wine magazines, and he has also instructed in university environments, such as the University of Rome Tor Vergata and the University of Parma. These activities further support his status as a mediator between coffee experts and the broader public.
While not the sole figure to contribute to this development, Illiano’s establishment of the Guida dei Caffè e delle Torrefazioni d’Italia has provided a framework to what was once an under-documented arena. Success for the guide is found in its two roles: it both reflects the current state of the coffee industry and serves as a means of dictating its future. With its takeover by Gambero Rosso, the guide now functions as part of a larger context of culinary assessment, moving coffee toward the standards traditionally held for wine and food.
As the Italian coffee scene continues to change, the need for informed, structured criticism remains. Whether consumers use the guide as a purchasing tool or as a resource for learning, its contribution to transparency and quality discourse is evident. The work of Mauro Illiano, while anchored in personal initiative, now forms part of a larger institutional movement to reframe how coffee is experienced and understood in Italy.
Mauro Illiano’s efforts reflect a wider shift toward specialization and critique in beverage culture. In creating and curating the Guida dei Caffè e delle Torrefazioni d’Italia, he has participated in a national reevaluation of what makes coffee not just drinkable but meaningful.
